609 Front Axle

Discuss Upgrades and Fixes

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Postby Jerry Blair » Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:54 am

$50???

Wow! Good call!

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Postby broncomarc » Sun Aug 24, 2008 7:22 pm

Started working on it again...

I needed clearance on the front cross member. I thought about cutting it out and replacing it with some tubing. I decided to try just chopping the bottom of it off. I think that looks like it's going to work. Just need to plate the bottom now.

I pulled my 44 again and put the 609 in place. The next step was to chop off the stock radius arm mounts....... But I chickened out. That's the point of no return. I decided just to mock everything up and see what would work and what wouldn't.

I was hoping I wouldn't run into the issue with the radius arm hitting the headers, but looks like I am. Guess I'm going to have to spring for new headers and exhaust.

The track bar didn't end up where I was expecting. I didn't think about the fact that the mounting position I was using was a few inches in front of the axle. The new one I'm using puts it directly over the axle. It's going to end up just behind the front sump of the oil pan. It'll hit it depending on where I position the axle. Maybe I can clearance the front sump a little. I don't really use it.

The front yoke is also right at the front sump. I could offset the front axle a little to get some clearance. I'm starting to think switching to an oil pan without a front sump. What's the point of that anyway?

The drivers side of the tie rod is close to hitting the pitman arm. I may need to move the axle back an inch to clear it. I think this is what's going to determine the final position of the axle. Or, I could put the tie rod on the bottom of the high steer arms like I've been running.

Found out the drag link is about an inch too long and the tie rod is about 2 inches too long. I might be able to adjust the drag link, but the heim on the tie rod is bend so there's no adjustment there.

I was hoping to put the air shocks on using the same 'frame' mount I've been using built into my tubing, then tie it into the shock mounts on the Cage arms. Might work, but might be too close to the frame.

Glad I didn't cut off those radius arm mounts. This project may go another year!
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- Marc Reiter
1973 Bronco - http://www.broncomarc.com/bronco/

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Postby moabbs » Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:59 pm

I dont know if the pictures show your real tollerences but my guess would be that your ideal of a mock up would be best. I find that if you figure all movement and then counter movement you will probably still hit somewhere. looks close to me. Wonder if you should have used some negative caster even for off road only?

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Postby moabbs » Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:05 pm

Have to take my transmission back out tomorrow .2nd- third gear scratch and a chatter in the lower cluster. Crappy rebuild by Kings Chrysler Jeep while under warrenty.

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Postby broncomarc » Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:34 pm

I've got it set for 8 degrees of castor. I can adjust it slightly, but it will affect pinion angle. As it sits, nothing is really attached and can be adjusted. (other than width and castor to pinion angle)
- Marc Reiter
1973 Bronco - http://www.broncomarc.com/bronco/

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Postby moabbs » Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:14 pm

Eight should be more than eneough. Your driveshaft- Pinion alignment looks good but will the pinion bearing get eneough lubrication? I havent noticed a pinion at that angle before?

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Postby moabbs » Mon Aug 25, 2008 11:22 pm

Looking at the pictures [wish Judy could figure out how to get my build pictures on] I really like the fits and designs of the bracket work. A great example is the track bar axle mount. Are you making these or is a machine shop ?

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Postby broncomarc » Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:29 am

I need to ask Currie about the high pinion. It's designed to run that way, but I recently realized that since I am moving it to the front end the ring gear is turning the opposite direction and the oiling may not work as designed.

The bracket is from Ballistic Fabrication. They make some very nice stuff! I also plan on taking a piece of 2x2 square tubing, cutting one side off, then running it from the center section to the track bar mount to truss it and strengthen the whole thing.
- Marc Reiter
1973 Bronco - http://www.broncomarc.com/bronco/

|_________
| /| ,[_____],
|¯¯¯L O-====-O
()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_)

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Postby broncomarc » Tue Aug 26, 2008 6:21 pm

Currie says it works fine in the front. They say it's actually even stronger in the front, but I think they were talking about the drive/coast sides of the gears. They said the lubrication should be ok.
- Marc Reiter
1973 Bronco - http://www.broncomarc.com/bronco/

|_________
| /| ,[_____],
|¯¯¯L O-====-O
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