Cummins oil leak fix / cam install

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Master Wheeler
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Cummins oil leak fix / cam install

Postby Watson » Mon Oct 09, 2006 12:37 pm

Well, after a year of my truck marking its territory from Ohio out to California, down to Louisiana, and up to Michigan... I'm finally getting around to tearing the motor down to fix my oil leak. For those who don't know what happened, go to the discussion forums on www.turbodieselregister.com and do a search for KDP (killer dowel pin) and you'll more than you ever wanted to know about this PITA. :mad:
got a quote from a dealership for $3500 :cry: for this repair and after spending $600 in parts and a weekend tearing the truck apart (abbreviated by some salmon fishing and beer drinkin) I understand why they charge so much.

So far I have removed:
front bumper
wipers & cowl (to gain access to cylinders 5 & 6)
AC condensor
radiator
intercooler
fan/clutch/hub/pulley
all associated belts/hoses
air intake tubing and housing
harmonic balancer
fuel lines from injection pump to injectors
valve covers
and finally the timing gear case cover

Tonight I plan on the following:
pull the rockers and pushrods
remove the injection pump gear from the injection pump without screwing up my timing
remove the cam and lifters
remove the old broken timing gear case
install the new gear case
install the new performance cam and lifters (like I was going to put the stock cam back in :biggrin: )
and get the gear back on the injection pump and recheck my timing

I'll be very lucky to get all that in tonight but I'll give er a try.

Here are some pics of the work so far. Also notice the missing axle components on the driverside. Driving home last Tuesday night I had another one of those dang unitized hub-bearing assemblies go out and this time it took out the stub-shaft too. Autozone will have the new bearing in tomorrow hopefully.

Wish me luck!!!
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(RIP): Beat up 93 XJ on 38.5 SXs and coils at all corners
New Driver: 01 XJ (2" lift - Rubi wheels/tires)
My Baby: Black 98 2500 Dodge Ram 12v Cummins Diesel on 33s (now with 6 speeds and a new head)
Parted out: 96 Black XJ on 31s
My Toy: Bright yellow 85 CJ-7 on 31s (officially sold to Ben now but I'm still building it)
Sold: Maroon 92 XJ - 5" lift, locked, and 32s

The road goes on forever and the party never ends...

Extreme Wheeler
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Postby Jerry Blair » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:25 pm

Wow. A ton of work. It only looks "slightly greasy" though. :wink:


Certainly compounds the difficulty of the work when things are so dirty. That is for sure.


THREAD HIJACK!

OK, since you and Marc have been into the Dodges much longer than I have, who makes a good looking front bumper? Other than Dodge?

I've seen Fabfours, ARB, Road Armor. None look good! I like the ARB for the Chevy or the Ford, but the only one they make for the Dodge looks like Crap!

Any idea how close the dimensions match up from the Dodge and Ford front bumper? I could easily make frame mounts if the outside dimensions fit the Dodge body.

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Postby broncomarc » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:32 pm

Hmmm.. I think I better get the jig to keep mine from popping out!

I might even let you park in the driveway again!
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- Marc Reiter
1973 Bronco - http://www.broncomarc.com/bronco/

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Postby broncomarc » Mon Oct 09, 2006 1:34 pm

I got the same question as Jerry! I'd like a front bumper that gives it a little of an off-road look, but won't add a ton of weight. I've already got a half a ton of motor up there..
- Marc Reiter
1973 Bronco - http://www.broncomarc.com/bronco/

|_________
| /| ,[_____],
|¯¯¯L O-====-O
()_)¯()_) ¯¯¯¯¯ )_)

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Postby Tom » Mon Oct 09, 2006 3:09 pm

I beleive it was the Earth Roamer vehicle/expedition vehicle that had a nice aluminum bumper up front. Maybe do a search with that and see if it pops up.

Tom
I had a moderately built Rubicon, but still prefered to wheel the WJ. Doesn't that say enough about me?

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Postby McConnaughey » Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:42 pm

Brian, if you scroll from the bottom pic up it magically reassembles it's self. Even the fluid flows back in. :biggrin:
Just hold on, I'll think of something clever in a minute, hey is that.........what was I suppose to be doing?

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Postby spaulman » Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:38 pm

I guess you won't have to worry about rust...
Scott Paulman
Lebanon, OH

46 CJ2A #18172
96 XJ Sport
13 JK Unlimited Rubi

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Postby McConnaughey » Wed Oct 11, 2006 8:38 pm

No, it's just the rest of the fall out. Alternator, hoses, electrical connections, etc, etc....that can fail in the future.

Hope it's going well. Post more pics as well.
Just hold on, I'll think of something clever in a minute, hey is that.........what was I suppose to be doing?

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Postby RuffedUpXJ » Thu Oct 12, 2006 3:30 pm

Watson, you didnt have an oil leak just a special motor that constantly changes its own oil.

I hope everything goes well on the rebuild
88' XJ Red: 5" Lift, OBA, 35" BFG MT, Bumpers, Rails, Loaded Rack, and a couple of dents

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Postby Watson » Fri Oct 13, 2006 10:11 am

Quick update...

After many headaches and trips to the parts-store and tool supply shops, I've made some progress. Old cam and lifters are out, old broken gear case removed, new lifters in, new gear case on, waiting for the gasket sealer to dry while I'm at work today and then the new cam goes in and I start bolting all the goodies back on.

I'll post up pics and more descriptive instuctions later.

Hope to be done by the end of the weekend.
(RIP): Beat up 93 XJ on 38.5 SXs and coils at all corners
New Driver: 01 XJ (2" lift - Rubi wheels/tires)
My Baby: Black 98 2500 Dodge Ram 12v Cummins Diesel on 33s (now with 6 speeds and a new head)
Parted out: 96 Black XJ on 31s
My Toy: Bright yellow 85 CJ-7 on 31s (officially sold to Ben now but I'm still building it)
Sold: Maroon 92 XJ - 5" lift, locked, and 32s

The road goes on forever and the party never ends...

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Postby jeepchick » Fri Oct 13, 2006 8:35 pm

that is what i have been telling him Nate. and poor poor truck and poor poor drive way and way to go Alan post number 3
-Rachel
'92 big XJ- lifted and locked
looking

Master Wheeler
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Postby Watson » Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:53 am

Watson, you didnt have an oil leak just a special motor that constantly changes its own oil.


True Nate but that gets very expensive. Going through about a gallon and a half of oil for every tank of fuel with a gallon of Rotella at TSC going for about $7.50 and the fact that I drive approx 400 miles a week... it really starts to add up.

So - I'm not getting much done since I had to come into work today but yesterday was a good day. New cam is in! Woo Hoo! Got the injection pump all hooked up and the timing set, got the lift pump back on, put the pushrods and the rocker assemblies back on, adjusted the valve lash, put the valve covers on, put the #1 fuel injector and the #1 delivery valve on the pump back in, and hooked up all the fuel lines. So, that leaves bolting on the case cover and then putting on the harmonic balancer, fan, and then all the radiator/intercooler/AC/bumper stuff back on and refilling all the necessary fluids.

None of this has really been all that hard but man is it time consuming. I bet I fought with that dang lift pump for over an hour. It would have been really nice to have another set of hands for that but really, I don't think there is enough room for two people to work in there anyway. Installing the lifters took some time too and then setting the valvelash yesterday took a bit of time too. Other than that, it has been pretty straight forward. I just wasn't as prepared for this job at the beginning. I was missing a few tools and I had to do a little running around to get some misc parts. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the rest of this will go ok and the truck will be blowing black smoke and burning tires again in just a couple days.
(RIP): Beat up 93 XJ on 38.5 SXs and coils at all corners
New Driver: 01 XJ (2" lift - Rubi wheels/tires)
My Baby: Black 98 2500 Dodge Ram 12v Cummins Diesel on 33s (now with 6 speeds and a new head)
Parted out: 96 Black XJ on 31s
My Toy: Bright yellow 85 CJ-7 on 31s (officially sold to Ben now but I'm still building it)
Sold: Maroon 92 XJ - 5" lift, locked, and 32s

The road goes on forever and the party never ends...

Master Wheeler
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Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 9:46 pm
Location: In front of the black diesel cloud

Postby Watson » Sun Oct 15, 2006 11:22 am

Here's some more pics...

There is a timing pin on the back of the gearcase that you can push into a hole in the camgear when the motor is at TDC to make things easier. I couldn't figure out why I could never get it to hold, I would get the motor to what I thought was TDC, push the timing pin in and it wouldn't hold. Well when I got it all apart, I realized that whoever worked on this truck before me, probably forgot to pull the timing pin back out before turning the motor over and the plastic pin got sheard off. Here's a pic of the broken timing pin. Thanks to Kyle up at Cummins Bridgeway in Grand Rapids. He located a new timing pin assembly at a Freightliner just a few miles from the Pfizer plant so I was able to run over there on my lunchbreak one day instead of having to have it overnighted or drive all the way up to GR. I owe Rick Harvey at The Dieselbunch http://www.thedieselbunch.com for getting me in touch with Kyle and having Kyle send me a new KDP and the gasket for the vacuum pump overnight too. Rick is an awesome guy who has given me great customer service over the past couple years and always the best prices on PDR go-fast goodies (piers diesel research - http://www.piersdiesel.com - the only performance parts I put on my truck). You guys rock Rick and Kyle! I highly recommend anyone looking at putting on aftermarket parts onto a Cummins to check out PDR and give Rick a call. I've talked directly with Harry at Piers and he has encouraged me to buy parts through Rick instead of going directly to PDR. Ok - enough advertisement - back to work... I just felt I owe Rick at least that for all he has helped me.

Here's also a pic of the dowel rod you have to make to do this job. You make one of these for each lifter (another reason I am happier to have a 12v versus the 24v) and you push this down the pushrod hole (pushrod removed obviously) and jam it into the cavity in the top of the lifter. This enables you to pick the lifter up to remove the cam. It's just 1/2" wooden dowel rod cut to about a foot long (about 9" for cylinders 5 & 6 to get under the cowl) and then you cut a taper into the end. It also helps to cut a groove down the center from the tip about an inch back.
When you get all the dowels pushed into the lifters, pick them up until the tappet hits the top of the chamber and put a rubber band between two of the dowels to hold them up. After the rubber bands, I also wrapped the two dowels with tape to be sure they didn't slip. If you drop a lifter into the oil pan, you have to pull the oil pan to fish it out. If you've ever seen how close the crossmember on the frame is to the bottom of the oilpan, you'll realize how much of a pain dropping the pan is. The vertical dowel rods in the pic are already pushed into lifters. I thought I took a pic of all the cylinders with the dowel rods in, pulled up, and taped off but I couldn't find it.

With the lifters pulled up and out of the way, you can pull the cam out. Remember if you have a 12v to remove the lift-pump also before trying to pull the cam. The pump has a plunger that rides on a cam-lobe. Once the cam is out, you put a trough into the cam hole to nock the lifters into to pull them out. I've always heard you use a piece of PVC to do this. You get a piece about 4' long, cut it in half (longways), slide it in, pull the dowels from the lifters, the lifters will fall into the pvc, they'll fall onto their side, and you can pull the pvc out with the lifter in it. Well, the cam journals are 2-1/8" diameter. 2" sch 40 PVC has an OD of about 2-3/8" so I had to go with 1.5" PVC to fit inside the cam hole. Well the 1.5" ID is too small to enable the lifter to fall far enough for it to tip over on its side to be removed. The tappet would hit the sides of the pvc before getting low enough for the shaft of the lifter to clear the bottom of the lifter bore. They would stay standing straight up. So, I ended up finding some semi-circular light plastic trim stuff from Home Depot. It was very thin-wall and I could easily cut it to fit. Instead of pulling the trough out everytime though I just used one of those bendable magnets to reach in and pull the lifter out. This worked like a charm. I used the PVC to put the lifters back in though since it was much more rigid. More on that to come. Anyway - here's a pic with the lifters out and the old broken gearcase off...
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old cam coming out.JPG
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Last edited by Watson on Sun Oct 15, 2006 12:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.
(RIP): Beat up 93 XJ on 38.5 SXs and coils at all corners
New Driver: 01 XJ (2" lift - Rubi wheels/tires)
My Baby: Black 98 2500 Dodge Ram 12v Cummins Diesel on 33s (now with 6 speeds and a new head)
Parted out: 96 Black XJ on 31s
My Toy: Bright yellow 85 CJ-7 on 31s (officially sold to Ben now but I'm still building it)
Sold: Maroon 92 XJ - 5" lift, locked, and 32s

The road goes on forever and the party never ends...

Master Wheeler
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Posts: 972
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 9:46 pm
Location: In front of the black diesel cloud

Postby Watson » Sun Oct 15, 2006 11:54 am

So, time to put the new case on, and put that new cam and lifters in (of course a PDR performace ground cam).

First off - here's a pic of the pushrods - aren't these things LONG! Keep track of them, they need to go back into the same hole you pulled them from.

Check out the old cam versus the new. Just by looking at them, they look the same but there is a difference. :jammin:

Ok next is a pic of the new KDP that I put in to line up the gearcase correctly.

Next is the new gearcase in. There is a shoulder molded into the redesigned case that goes over the KDP. The diameter of the hole in the shoulder is smaller than the KDP so it enables you to see through the case to line up with the pin but it won't allow the pin to come out. Just to be clear - the hole in the case for the pin is the same diameter as the pin but the shoulder hole diameter is smaller. Just to be sure, I filled this hole with RTV after the case was torqued down just in case that little pin decides to try to vibrate loose again. You'll see the PVC trough in this pic for installing the new lifters.

Ok, to put the new lifters in, you have to fish a string down the pushrod hole, pull it out of the front of the motor to attach the lifter to. I used a 1/4" drive 8 or 10mm socket (i forget which now) and tied the string to that, dropped the socket through the pushrod hole, and used my hand-dandy bendy-magent to pull the socket down the pvc trough and out the front of the motor. Rick gave me the plan of putting foam into the lifter to hold it. I just got some 1/2" diameter round door instulation foam from the local hardware store. I end up doubling this over to make sure it would stay. So, I cut the socket off the string and tied on a piece of foam about 2-3" long. I folded that over and pushed into to the lifter and used a screwdriver to pack it down in there as tight as possible. It is important to try to keep the string centered in the lifter for when you go to pull it up. If the string is off to one side, it'll tip the lifter over and it'll be a pain to get into the lifter bore. You pull the string up through the pushrod hole until the lifter reaches the proper bore. Then you slowly pull the pvc trough back out enough to allow the lifter to drop and hang vertically. This is when the foam better be in there good or you'll be dropping the oilpan to retrieve a lifter. So - with the lifter hanging, slowly pull it up until you feel the lifter hit the bore. I found it helps to put the bendy-magnet in and try to catch the bottom of the lifter. This does a couple things: one it may keep the lifter from falling into the pan if the foam happens to some out (luckily I didn't have to test that theory) but mainly it helps steady the lifter and you can manipulate the angle of the lifter to get it up into the bore easier (it is a very tight fit). Move the magnet back and forth a little while pushing up with it and pull up on the string and the lifter goes right up into place. When it does, flip the pvc over so the open end is facing down, push it towards the back of the motor past the lifter just installed, give the string a good yank and it'll pull the foam out of the lifter and allow the lifter to fall until it hits the pvc. Take one of the wooden dowelrods and push it into the lifter and pull it back up and rubberband it off just like what was done with the old lifters. You do this for all of them and then you can install the new cam.

OK - correction time - the trained eye would have noticed in the pictures that I actually put the new lifters in before putting the new gearcase on. I just screwed this order up with the pictures and the writeup. It really doesn't matter which you do first but I did the lifters first because with the case off, there is a possibility that if a lifter were to fall into the oil pan during the install, that you could maybe fish it out with the trusty bendy-magnet. With the case in place and bolted to the oilpan - there is no way you would have enough access to the oilpan to reach in and pull a lifter out. Plus, the case does bolt to the oilpan so you would have to remove all those bolts and re-seal it all over again. So I was just thinking ahead and luckily didn't have to worry about it.
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old cam & new cam.JPG
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new KDP in.JPG
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Last edited by Watson on Sun Oct 15, 2006 12:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
(RIP): Beat up 93 XJ on 38.5 SXs and coils at all corners
New Driver: 01 XJ (2" lift - Rubi wheels/tires)
My Baby: Black 98 2500 Dodge Ram 12v Cummins Diesel on 33s (now with 6 speeds and a new head)
Parted out: 96 Black XJ on 31s
My Toy: Bright yellow 85 CJ-7 on 31s (officially sold to Ben now but I'm still building it)
Sold: Maroon 92 XJ - 5" lift, locked, and 32s

The road goes on forever and the party never ends...

Master Wheeler
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Posts: 972
Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 9:46 pm
Location: In front of the black diesel cloud

Postby Watson » Sun Oct 15, 2006 12:25 pm

Time to lube up the cam with some assembling lube and slide that beast into the hole. Guys - be carefull! This is one time that bottoming out with your shaft is NOT a good thing. If you go too deep, you'll knock the rear seal out and cause a leak. Be gentle. Remember - diesels are just like women - if you take your time with them and take care of them, they may be slow to warm up but when they do - they can go forever and they'll be oh so good to you.

First is a pic of the new lifters up in their bores waiting in anticipation for their new cam.

Next is the cam going in. Only lube up the cam a little at a time, it's easier to grab the cam close to the motor to help it in and you don't want to be grabbing lube. Slide it almost all the way in but before you put it all the way in, remember to put the retaining plate on the cam and make sure your camgear teeth match the crankgear teeth (the OO on the cam should meet the O on the crank). Here's little tip that only took me two times dropping the retaining plate into the oilpan and having to fish it out with my bendy-magnet to learn. Use a screwdriver or something and put it through the slots in the camgear and into the bolt-hole of the retaining plate to keep the plate from sliding off the cam and dropping. This also helps align the holes when the cam is pushed all the way in.

After the cam is in, pull all the dowel rods out to drop the lifters onto the cam, put the injection pump gear back on (making sure to keep the pump shaft from rotating which would completely hose your timing), rotate the motor over to the low-side of the lift-pump lobe, bolt the lift pump back on, drop all the pushrods into place, put the rocker assemblies on and set the valvelash. A 90 degree screwdriver really helps with setting the lash on cylinders 5 & 6. The service manual is great for this procedure on getting the motor to TDC for certain valves and BDC for the other valves.
Attachments
new lifters.JPG
new lifters.JPG (124.53 KiB) Viewed 13776 times
new cam going in 1.JPG
new cam going in 1.JPG (188.88 KiB) Viewed 13776 times
new cam going in 2.JPG
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holding cam retainer.JPG
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#6 cylinder valvelash.JPG
#6 cylinder valvelash.JPG (191.05 KiB) Viewed 13776 times
exhaust valve setting lash.JPG
exhaust valve setting lash.JPG (219.45 KiB) Viewed 13776 times
(RIP): Beat up 93 XJ on 38.5 SXs and coils at all corners
New Driver: 01 XJ (2" lift - Rubi wheels/tires)
My Baby: Black 98 2500 Dodge Ram 12v Cummins Diesel on 33s (now with 6 speeds and a new head)
Parted out: 96 Black XJ on 31s
My Toy: Bright yellow 85 CJ-7 on 31s (officially sold to Ben now but I'm still building it)
Sold: Maroon 92 XJ - 5" lift, locked, and 32s

The road goes on forever and the party never ends...

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